A list of strategies we use for native plant landscaping.
This page is gradually being updated. It will have all the strategies we use and why we use them. Each strategy will have a definition describing the strategy in detail. Real examples of landscapes done with this strategy or are currently using it. One day each strategy will have a DUI/how to video for each one. Ill also update the long-term effects of each strategy and the cases they should and should not be used.
List:
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Some Removal+Smother Mulching+Planting
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No Removal+Smother Mulching+Planting
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Sod Removal+Seed
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Sod Removal+Plug Planting+Seed and hay mulch
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​Ivy Removal+Planting + Seed
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Knotweed Removal+Mulch+Planting
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Mugwort Removal+Mulch +Planting
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Mugwort +Consistent Chopdown
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Knotweed +Consistent Chopdown
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Stilt Grass Smothering
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Cutting Dense Invasive Brush+ Consistent/Yearly Chopdown
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Digging out Invasive Brush
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Brush Cutting Meadow
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Hedge Trimming Meadow
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Leaving Standing Meadow
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Leaving Leaves
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Removal of Leaves and most Plant debris
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Removal of some Leaves and Plant debris
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Chop and Drop Cleanup/mulching
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Chop and Drop invasive removal
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Fall Seeding
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Mulching using Leaves
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Mulching leaves with mower.
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Disposal, Debris, etc ​
Removal of debris from work in the garden and landscape.
The debris can be piled onsite, in the woods, in the corners and generally out of the way.
These piles act as refuge for wildlife, break down into usable soil and generally, are more cost effective than total removal. Better for the local ecology too.
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Total removal of debris from landscape involves loading the truck and taking away an official dumpsite such as transfer stations nearby. Sometimes there is more debris than I can handle at once so contracting a company that specializes in removal is required.
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Debris can include:
Leaves, twigs, branches, sod scraps, roots, logs, rocks, weeds, plants, soil, gravel, installation scraps etc
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Invasive Plant Weeding+Native Plant Saving/Planting --------------------------------------------
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Landscaping for ecology. Removing invasive species from the landscape and opening things up for native plants. These plants are from your local region and have been around for a very long time. Long term, these plants will grow and fill the space taken up by the invasives and will increase diversity on the property.
Invasive plants will be removed by weeding them out. Weeding involves cutting down, pulling, digging out, chopping up, weedwacking, trimming, mowing etc. This process will be repeated until gone or when natives take their place.
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These native plants are important as they feed a higher diversity and quantity of wildlife than invasive plants. See invasive plants button above to learn about the horrid plants commonly and STILL sold to us by the landscape industry. These plants are also STILL being highly utilized, sold and pushed by the industry even when it is LISTED AS A KNOWN INVASIVE in the region. These plants take over local ecosystems, reduce biodiversity and generally ruin our natural heritage. Why are these plants so bad? Baberry. Look it up. Or better go see for yourself at these local preserves and STATE FORESTS (public land):
CT
Nehantic state forest CT-Woods near Uncas pond. -Burningbush, Bittersweet invade the drier slopes.
Jewett Preserve CT - Burningbush invasion along the trails and covering entire hillsides near pleasant valley.
Jewett Preserve/Mount Archer CT-hundreds of acres of pure barberry, nothing else
Bluff Point CT -Vast thicket of impassable: multiflora rose, bush honeysuckle, barberry, buckthorn and Japanese honeysuckle.
Patchaug state forest- CT roadsides of Japanese stilt grass
Any sunny roadside in New London County -you drive by vast amounts of mugwort, knotweed, phragmites EVERY DAY
Barn Island CT -Dense and impassable thicket of bush honeysuckle, multiflora rose and buckthorn, vast areas of phragmites
RI Coastal Ponds -vast areas of phragmites
Carter Preserve RI -barberry, multiflora rose, bittersweet thicket
Hurd park CT- acres upon acres of Japanese angelica, multiflora rose, barberry along the parks roadsides and pavilion areas
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​Sod Removal, Mulch, Planting+Seed​
My most common method of installing new gardens.
This method has worked very well! Its a solid A+
Process-
Consultation to go over location. This can be anywhere from around your house. Around a tree or rock or other landscape feature and always involves removing lawn.
Lawn Removal Lawn is removed by using flat shovels and scraping it up. It can also be done using an expensive sod cutter. Sometimes good plants are within the area to be cut and will be saved for replanting.
Scraped up lawn can be disposed of onsite or taken away (see disposal to learn more:
After sod removal we will mulch.
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Mulching
Mulching involves bringing in woodchips/mulch from local supplier. This material is a range of natural brown colors. Mulch to be 1-3 inches thick (average 1-2).
MULCH MUST BE 1 inch or less around trees and shrubs. This reduces rot to bark.
AFTER PLANTING MAKE SURE MULCH IS SWEPT AWAY FROM THE BASES OF ALL WHEN WORKING ON A SLOPE GO BACK AND BE SURE NO MULCH HAS RUN DOWN SLOPE AND COVERED PLANTS. THIS REDUCES ROT.
Mulch reduces initial seedling germination. Increases establishment of natives by reducing competition from unwanted plants.
Reduces runoff by covering open soil.
Increases moisture retention by insulating soil from wind and sun.
Will decay within a few years acting as the perfect medium for more natives to spread. By the time this happens the natives planted have had a few years to inoculate the mulch with a native seedbank. Increases meadow plants, reducing weeding and increasing diversity. See established meadows to learn more:
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Then planting of a mix of native plant species depending on site conditions. See flowers page for more info:
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Design:
Placing out plants based on site conditions and height.
Flat: shorter towards the edges and taller towards the middle.
Slope: short towards the top and taller towards the bottom
Pond: short plants
Near houses: short plants
Near walkways: short plants
Space Filler: (depends on site conditions)
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Planting:
For perennials, shrubs, bareroot, etc
Hole to be dug depth of plant. Bareroot should be right at soil grade NEVER completely buried.
Tease/rough up roots (only if rootbound), roots should be lightly teased out of pot shape in loose/low rooted plants, for heavier rooted plants roots to be roughed up good. Look for girdling roots at the bases of woody plants.
Generally:
1 full shovel length for 1g plants takes below 30 seconds-3 minutes to plant -depends on soil
Roughing the soil up for pint sized plants below 30 seconds to plant up to 1 minute, depends on soil
Size of pot or root ball for shrubs or trees. 5-20+ minutes -depends on size and soil conditions -shrubs will get a berm/well to retain water. Plant should be no more than 1 inch above grade. If a large rock or root is in the way, move the plant until it is not. If unable to, regrade soil in the surrounding area or grab outside soil and grade the soil up to the plant. Build well into this mound.
DO NOT PLANT TOO DEEP, if plant seems below grade after taking out of pot remove and add some soil until its at grade with surrounding lawn/surface. Why? Root bark= tolerant of wet but weak to drying out. Stem/trunk bark= tolerant of dry conditions but will rot if kept too wet.
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Soil should be pressed around plants until no more can be added. BUT DO NOT OVERCOMPACT. Soil shouldn't be easily dug into with 1 finger. Its sorta hard to explain as this depends on soil type but gernally through experience you will find how it should be done.
Wells:
A raised ring of soil around a shrub or tree. Ring should extend to the drip line of the plant if possible. The drip line is the edge of the foliage all the way around the plant. Raised soil ring to be a wider than it is tall 2-4 inch tall circular wall around the plant utilizing the extra soil from the hole after planting.
Watering:
For perennials water for 1-2 minutes each once every 3-5 days after a good rain during the summer. Or set a sprinkler for 1 hour to the whole area.
For shrubs and trees :Fill the wells twice every 4-5 days after a good rain during the summer. (rain over 4 hours or 0.25 inches)
During the cooler months: Fall-Spring watering typically isn't needed due to cool temperatures, dormancy and consistent rainfall.
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Smother Mulching areas Planting
Densely mulching designated areas of lawn or other areas to smother existing plants. This will knock back and sometimes kill existing plants allowing natives to fill in.
Mulch to be an average thickness of 3+
Place out plants based on site conditions see flowers page for more info:
Then we will plant within this mulch
Plants will be inserted to the ORIGINAL GRADE of soil, then mulch will grade back up around each.
DO NOT PLANT PLANTS IN MULCH. IF THE SOIL YOU ARE PLANTING IN IS MULCH, DO NOT PLANT IT. PLANTS DONT GROW WELL/SUFFER IN A MEDIUM OF PURE MULCH.
Remove swath of soil until original grade is found. (move at least a total of a 1ft round circular indent down to the original grade of soil. Then plant. DO NOT MIX SOIL WITH MULCH
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Intensive Removal
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Intensive removal:
Complete tear out of invasive, unwanted shrubs, vines, trees, perennials etc.
This includes removal of all or most of the root systems (at least the part that matters such as the root crown)
Different strategies are used for other plants and will be included below. This process usually removes 75-95% of unwanted plants.
Long Term Maintenance is required to aid in the establishment of the native ecosystem.
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Smother mulching will further reduce plant spread. See here to learn more about smother mulching:
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Mugwort removal
Why is mugwort removal required? Mugwort is a tall, highly invasive, non-native, wind pollinated plant. This plant provides few benefits to wildlife other than abundant seed, it is not a host plant to any native insects nor does it produce flowers that can be pollinated. Mugwort also changes soil chemistry making it better for mugwort and worse for other plants. This plant is also a major cause of allergies with its wind pollinated flowers in the fall.
Removal of large patches and swaths of mug wort. Its best to let the debris rot in shady woods or take away. Mugwort (Artemisa vulgaris) is an incredibly invasive and labor-intensive weed to manage in the short term but long term it's a solvable problem. Each plant can produce thousands of seeds, and each plant has the ability to rapidly spread via rhizomes. A first-year seedling will spread 5-10 runners in its second year. Each of those runners will produce a full-size plant and each one will send out another 5-10 runners. A mugwort patch can double in size every year if given the chance. Mugwort is severely reduced by consistent cutting but also full on removal of the roots.
Full on removal of roots will reduce the plants biomass by 95%. As long as that 5% is not allowed to grow and set seed it can be eliminated within 2 years as native plants are established in its place.
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Smother mulching or planting is HIGHLY RECCOMENDED after removal. This speeds up the process of the elimination of mugwort on the property.
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No Sod Removal+Smother Mulching+Planting
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Sod Removal+Seed
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​Ivy Removal+Planting + Seed
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Knotweed Removal+Mulch+Planting
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Mugwort Removal+Mulch +Planting
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Mugwort +Consistent Chopdown
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Knotweed +Consistent Chopdown
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BurningBush +Consistent Chopdown
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Barberry +Consistent Chopdown
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Bittersweet and other invasive vine basal cutting +consistent cutting
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Stilt Grass Smothering
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Stilt Grass Timed Mow
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Cutting Dense Invasive Brush+ Consistent/Yearly Chopdown
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Digging out Invasive Brush
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Established Meadow Care
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---Brush Cutting Meadow
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---Hedge Trimming Meadow
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---Leaving Standing Meadow
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---Weeding
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----Augmenting
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Forest Landscape Care
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---Weeding
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---Cutting back
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---Leaving Leaves
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---Leaving sticks or fallen branches
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---Piling sticks and fallen branches
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Native Meadow Restoration
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---Removal of brush or invasives
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---Removing aggressive species
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---Removing small trees
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Forest Landscape Restoration
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---Removal of invasives
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---Promoting woodland flowers and shrubs
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---Adding woodland flowers and shrubs
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Removal of Leaves and most Plant debris
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Removal of some Leaves and Plant debris
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Chop and Drop Cleanup/mulching
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Chop and Drop invasive removal
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Fall Seeding
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Mulching using Leaves
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Mulching leaves with mower.
